by Kanimozhi BV | Jul 4, 2025 | Garden, Exterior
Keeping a chainsaw sharp is one of the smartest things I’ve learned when it comes to tool maintenance. A dull chain doesn’t just slow you down — it can also be dangerous.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything I know about how to sharpen a chainsaw with a file, with a focus on clarity, safety, and simplicity.
Whether you’re an occasional user or use your saw regularly, sharpening the right way will help you get clean cuts and reduce wear on your machine.
How Do I Know My Chainsaw Needs Sharpening?
What Are the Signs of a Dull Chainsaw?
There are always a few telltale signs that tell me it’s time to sharpen the chain. If I notice any of the following, I know it’s time to stop and reach for my file:
- The saw pulls in one direction while cutting.
- I need to apply more pressure than usual.
- It creates fine sawdust instead of coarse wood chips.
- The chain can produce smoke, even if it’s properly lubricated.
- The cut surface looks uneven or rough.
A sharp chain cuts quickly and smoothly, producing large, thick wood chips. On the other side, a dull chain will struggle, bog down the motor & leave me with poor-quality cuts.
The saw feels like it’s working harder than it should — and so am I. In my experience, a freshly sharpened chain makes the work easier, safer, and much more efficient.

What Is a Chainsaw File and How Does It Work?
A chainsaw file is a round file designed to match the curvature of the chain’s cutting teeth. This file helps restore the cutting edge by removing just enough metal to sharpen the tooth without damaging it.
It’s a manual, low-cost method — and it’s what I personally prefer for control and precision.
Understanding File Sizes and Types
Not all chains use the same file size. Using the correct diameter file is crucial, as the wrong size can round the tooth incorrectly or remove too much metal.
I always check the chain pitch and match it to the proper file diameter.
Here’s a simple guide I follow:
Chain Type |
Pitch |
File Diameter |
3/8″ Low Profile |
0.375″ |
4.0 mm |
.325″ |
0.325″ |
4.8 mm |
3/8″ |
0.375″ |
5.2 mm |
.404″ |
0.404″ |
5.5 mm |
If you’re unsure, the chain packaging or manufacturer website often lists the file size required.
Do I Need a File Guide or Filing Kit?
While it’s possible to sharpen without a guide, I’ve found a file guide to be incredibly helpful — especially when I was learning. A filing kit typically includes:
- A round file
- A file guide (to help maintain correct angles)
- A flat file (for adjusting the depth gauges)
- A depth gauge tool
- A file handle
These tools work together to keep each tooth uniform and ensure consistent cutting performance.

How to Prepare Before Sharpening?
Safety First – What Gear Should I Use?
Sharpening may not seem dangerous, but I treat it with just as much caution as cutting. Before I start, I make sure I’m wearing:
- Heavy-duty gloves to protect my hands
- Safety goggles to protect my eyes from metal filings as a shield
- Sturdy boots with good grip
- Long sleeves or a protective apron
A solid workspace, preferably a bench or log stand, helps ensure I’m working safely and comfortably.
How Do I Secure the Chainsaw for Filing?
Securing the chainsaw properly is key to a clean, even filing job. I usually clamp the chainsaw bar in a bench vice to keep it stable.
If I’m in the field, I use a bar clamp that attaches to a stump or log. The key is to make sure the chain is locked in place but still moves freely when rotated manually.
Should I Clean the Chain First?
Absolutely. Dirt, resin, and debris can make filing difficult and cause uneven sharpening.
I always brush off the chain using a stiff-bristled brush and sometimes use a degreaser if the buildup is heavy. A clean chain helps the file grip better and provides a smoother sharpening motion.
Step-by-Step: How To Sharpen a Chainsaw with a File?
Step 1: Find the Master Cutter
I start by locating the shortest cutter on the chain.
This tooth is my reference, or master cutter, and I file all the others to match its length. I mark it with a permanent marker so I know where I began.
Step 2: Align the File at the Right Sharpening Angle
Most chainsaw teeth are sharpened at an angle between 25° & 35°, based on the type of the chain.
Some filing guides have markings to help with this, or I use a sharpening template for accuracy. I always check the manufacturer’s recommendations to make sure I’m using the correct angle.
Step 3: File Each Tooth Correctly
Holding the file at the correct angle, I push it away from me in smooth, even strokes — never back and forth.
I typically apply 4–6 strokes per tooth, depending on how dull it is. It’s important to apply consistent pressure and keep the strokes level.
I sharpen every other cutter on one side of the chain, then rotate the saw to file the cutters on the opposite side.
Step 4: Check the Depth Gauges
The depth gauge, also called a raker, controls how deep each tooth cuts into the wood. If the depth gauge is too high, the tooth won’t bite properly.
Too low, and it cuts too aggressively, leading to vibration and kickback.
Using a depth gauge tool, I check each raker and file it down with a flat file if it sits above the tool’s profile.
Step 5: Tension the Chain After Sharpening
Once all teeth and rakers are sharpened, I check the chain tension.
It should snap back into place when pulled slightly away from the bar, but still move freely when rotated by hand. If it’s too tight or too loose, I adjust it accordingly.

What Are the Most Common Filing Mistakes?
Are You Filing Too Much or Too Little?
Removing too much material can shorten the life of your chain, while filing too little leaves it dull and ineffective.
I aim to remove just enough metal to restore the edge without making the cutter uneven or worn.
Is Your File at the Wrong Angle?
Angle inconsistency can ruin the cutting edge and reduce efficiency.
Early on, I made this mistake often until I started using a guide consistently.
Did You Forget the Depth Gauge?
Neglecting the depth gauge is one of the most overlooked steps.
Even if the teeth are razor-sharp, a high raker will make the saw cut poorly. I include this step every time I sharpen — it’s worth it.
How Often Should I Sharpen My Chainsaw?
What Affects Sharpening Frequency?
I sharpen my chain after every 1–2 hours of cutting time, but some situations wear the teeth out faster. For example:
- Cutting dirty or muddy wood
- Striking a rock or metal object
- Working with frozen or treated wood
Frequent inspections help me decide when to sharpen rather than waiting for a noticeable drop in performance.
Can Over-Sharpening Wear Down the Chain?
Yes. Every time I sharpen, a small layer of metal is removed. Eventually, the teeth become too short to be effective or safe.
I keep an eye on their length — if they’re significantly shorter than when new, it’s time for a replacement.

When Should I Replace the Chain Instead of Sharpening?
Is It Still Safe to Use?
There are times when no amount of sharpening will restore a chain. I replace mine if:
- Teeth are cracked, chipped, or broken
- There are multiple missing teeth
- The chain no longer holds tension properly
- It feels unbalanced even after proper sharpening
Chains are wear parts — replacing them at the right time is part of smart maintenance.
How Many Times Can a Chain Be Sharpened?
On average, I get about 3 to 5 full sharpenings from a chain before it becomes too worn down.
That number can vary depending on how aggressive the filing is and the materials I’m cutting.
Is Filing Better Than an Electric Sharpener?
Pros and Cons of Manual Filing
In my experience, manual filing has clear advantages and some limitations:
Advantages:
- Greater control and precision
- Quiet and portable (no power needed)
- More affordable long-term
Disadvantages:
- Time-consuming if the chain is very dull
- Requires practice to master the angles
- Less ideal for heavily damaged chains
Why I Prefer Using a File for My Chainsaw?
I’ve used electric sharpeners before, but I always come back to the hand file. It’s portable, easy to carry in the field, and gives me full control over each cutter.
Plus, I can touch up the chain after just a few minutes of use, which keeps it cutting smoothly all day.

Smart Chainsaw Care: My Final Tips
Maintaining my chainsaw isn’t just about sharpening. It’s about building a routine that ensures consistent performance. Here are the items I always keep in my maintenance kit:
Chainsaw Maintenance Essentials:
- Correct round file and file guide
- Flat file and depth gauge tool
- Permanent marker (to mark the master cutter)
- Bar clamp or vice for securing the saw
- Brush for cleaning the chain
- Chain oil and bar cleaner
- Spare chain (for quick swaps)
By following this sharpening process regularly, I’ve extended the lifespan of my chains, improved my cutting results, and made chainsaw work a lot more enjoyable.
Conclusion
Learning how to sharpen a chainsaw with a file has saved me time, money, and frustration. It’s a skill that might take a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
With the right tools, technique, and care, your chainsaw will always be ready to tackle the next job — smoothly and safely.
If you’re just getting started, stick with the basics, use a guide if needed, and trust the process. A well-sharpened chain truly transforms the way your saw performs.
Related Article: Inexpensive Raised Garden Bed Ideas
by Kanimozhi BV | Jul 1, 2025 | Roof, Exterior, Home & Living
When I noticed the rainwater dripping through the roof of my garden shed, I knew it was time to take action. The old felt was torn, worn out, and letting water seep through.
That’s when I decided to learn how to felt a shed roof myself—and surprisingly, it turned out to be a rewarding and cost-effective DIY job.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything I did to get my shed fully weatherproof again.
Why Should I Felt My Shed Roof?
Is felt roofing waterproof and durable?
Absolutely. Shed roof felt is designed to create a waterproof barrier that protects the shed from rain, snow, and moisture buildup.
In the unpredictable UK weather, roofing felt helps to keep the structure dry and extend its lifespan.
What are the benefits of using shed roof felt in the UK climate?
From frequent rain to cold winters, the UK climate puts outdoor buildings to the test. I chose felt because it’s:
- Budget-friendly
- Easy to apply
- Great at insulating against damp
Can felt extend the life of my garden shed?
Yes, a well-installed shed roofing felt layer can add years of protection to your shed. It prevents rot, warping, and mould by sealing the roof timber against moisture penetration.

I gathered all my tools in advance so I wouldn’t have to stop halfway. Here’s a list of what I used:
- Hammer and galvanised roofing nails
- Heavy-duty utility knife
- Straight edge or ruler
- Tape measure
- Ladder
- Roofing adhesive or bitumen (optional but helpful)
Choosing the right type of shed roofing felt:
There are different kinds of felt available in the UK. I opted for heavy-duty bitumen felt, which is ideal for garden sheds. You can also choose:
- Mineral felt (basic protection)
- Torch-on felt (more professional, but needs a blowtorch)
- Self-adhesive felt (easier for smaller sheds)
Shed felt fixings and accessories:
- Edge trim to tidy up the roof edges
- Clout nails (galvanised for rust protection)
- Sealant or cold bitumen adhesive for overlaps
How I Prepared My Shed Roof for Felting?
Removing old felt and inspecting the timber roof
The first step was stripping off the old, damaged felt. I used a scraper and hammer to pull out the nails and peel it back.
Once removed, I checked the underlying timber boards for signs of rot or warping.
Repairing any damaged boards or battens
One edge had suffered water damage, so I replaced a couple of roof boards. Better to sort it out now than have problems later.
Cleaning and measuring for a neat installation
Before laying new felt, I brushed off any dirt and debris, then measured the roof so I could cut the felt rolls to size ahead of time.

Step-by-Step: How To Felt A Shed Roof
Here’s exactly how I installed the new felt on my shed roof:
Step 1 – Laying the first strip of felt on the lower edge
I started at the bottom edge of the roof and unrolled the first strip with a 50mm overhang. This overhang allows water to drip off instead of soaking into the wood.
Step 2 – Overlapping and layering the felt sheets
Each layer of felt should overlap the one below it by at least 75mm. This prevents water from sneaking underneath. I used my straight edge and knife to trim the sheets cleanly.
Step 3 – Securing the felt with roofing nails and adhesive
I nailed the felt every 150mm along the top edge and used roofing adhesive under the overlaps to keep the layers wind-resistant.
Step 4 – Folding and fixing the edges neatly
At the edges, I folded the felt down and secured it underneath the roofline using nails. This helps protect the sides of the roof from rain and wind.
Step 5 – Adding ridge felt or capping strip on top
Finally, I added a separate strip of felt across the roof ridge, overlapping both sides. This acts as a seal and prevents water ingress at the topmost part of the shed.
Table: Materials & Purpose Checklist
Material/Tool |
Purpose |
Shed roof felt roll |
Main waterproofing layer |
Roofing nails |
To secure felt to timber |
Roofing adhesive |
For overlap sealing and wind resistance |
Hammer or nail gun |
To drive nails quickly and securely |
Utility knife |
For cutting felt to size |
Straight edge & tape |
For accurate measurements |
Common Mistakes I Avoided (And You Should Too)
Here are a few errors I made sure to dodge:
- Not allowing enough felt overhang: This can cause water to run back into the timber.
- Nailing too close to the edge: The felt can tear over time.
- Laying felt in bad weather: Moisture gets trapped and ruins the adhesive.
- Skipping adhesive on overlaps: Especially in wind-prone areas, this is a must.

My Maintenance Tips After Installation
After felting, I make it a habit to:
- Inspect the roof every few months for lifting edges or nail damage
- Brush off moss and leaves to prevent moisture retention
- Apply sealant on weak spots after harsh weather
Conclusion: My Experience Felting a Shed Roof
Felting my shed roof wasn’t just a repair job—it was a confidence boost. It took me an afternoon, saved me money, and protected my tools and garden supplies from water damage.
Now, whenever I hear rain tapping on the roof, I feel proud knowing I installed the felt myself—and it’s holding up perfectly.
If you’re considering tackling this yourself, I say go for it. Just take your time, use the right materials, and follow these steps carefully.
You’ll not only learn how to felt a shed roof, but you’ll also gain a skill that’s practical and genuinely satisfying.
Related Article: How to Repair Roof Felt from Inside Loft?
FAQs On How To Felt A Shed Roof (And the Answers I Found)
1. How much felt do I need for my shed roof size?
Measure the length and width of each roof side. Add an extra 100–150mm for overhang and overlaps. I bought one roll for my 6x4ft shed, and it was more than enough.
2. Do I need underlay before roofing felt?
For most garden sheds, roofing underlay isn’t essential. However, some people use it for added insulation and extra waterproofing.
3. Can I felt a shed roof alone or do I need help?
I managed it solo, but if your shed is larger or if it’s windy, having an extra pair of hands helps keep the felt in place while you nail it down.
4. How long does shed roofing felt last?
Basic felt lasts about 5–8 years, while heavy-duty felt can last 10–15 years with proper maintenance.
5. What weather is best for felting a shed?
Dry, calm days are ideal. I did mine in early spring when there was no rain forecast—never install felt when it’s wet or windy.
by Kanimozhi BV | Jun 27, 2025 | Refrigerator, Appliances
When my Beko fridge freezer not working, I was genuinely frustrated. Food was spoiling, the fridge was warm, and the freezer didn’t feel as cold as it should.
After going through the headache of trial and error, I put together this comprehensive guide based on my personal experience—and a bit of help from trusted sources and forums across the UK.
If you’re going through something similar, let me walk you through what I did to get it working again.
Why Is My Beko Fridge Freezer Not Working?
Is it a complete power failure or just cooling issues?
The first thing I checked was whether the unit had any power at all. If both the fridge and freezer aren’t cooling, and there are no lights or sounds, it might be a complete power loss.
I verified the wall socket, the plug, and even changed the fuse—turns out, my power outlet had tripped.
What signs indicate a mechanical problem?
If the fridge makes a clicking sound, or the compressor is hot but not running, you might be looking at a compressor relay failure or an issue with the thermostat.
I also noticed a persistent buzzing before mine stopped working.
Could a recent power cut be the cause?
In my case, a brief power outage had reset the fridge’s control system. A simple manual reset helped, which I’ll explain later.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting for a Beko Fridge Freezer
Have you checked the power supply and fuse?
This should always be step one. Unplug the fridge and test the socket with another appliance. Then, inspect and replace the 13A fuse in the plug if needed.
Is the thermostat set correctly?
Beko recommends 4°C for the fridge and -18°C for the freezer. Mine was accidentally knocked to a warmer setting during cleaning.
Is the compressor making any unusual noise?
If your compressor clicks on and off rapidly or makes no sound at all, it might be faulty. Then, I need to test this using a multimeter to confirm continuity in the compressor relay.
Are the lights on but the fridge is warm?
This happened to me—and it pointed to airflow blockage or a faulty sensor. My fridge light was on, but warm inside, even though the freezer was cold.
Is your freezer working but fridge not cooling?
This often means there’s a problem with the damper control, evaporator fan, or a blocked vent between the freezer and fridge. I found ice buildup blocking cold air from reaching the fridge compartment.
Common Issues and How I Fixed Them
Here are some real issues I faced and how I managed them:
- Faulty thermostat or temperature sensor: I bought a cheap digital thermometer to verify the internal temperature. A sensor replacement was easy and cost-effective.
- Blocked or frozen vents: A full manual defrost (unplugged for 24 hours) melted the ice behind the rear panel.
- Malfunctioning defrost system: When my fridge kept icing up, it turned out the defrost heater was dead.
- Control board or compressor failure: I had to get professional help here—it was beyond my DIY ability.
- Ice buildup behind the freezer panel: Regular defrosting helped me prevent this in the future.

Quick Fixes Before Calling a Technician
How to reset a Beko fridge freezer?
Here’s how I did it:
- Turned off the fridge using the temperature dial
- Unplugged the unit from the mains
- Waited 10 minutes
- Plugged it back in and turned it on
This reset the internal control board, and it worked in my case.
Explore more on expert guide to fix faults and to reset beko fridge freezer
When and how to defrost manually?
Remove the plug from the socket, leave both doors open & place towels around the base. I used bowls of hot water to speed things up.
How I checked the condenser coils and cleaned them?
Dust buildup behind the unit can cause overheating and cooling failure. I used a vacuum and soft brush to clean the coils, improving performance almost instantly.
Can unplugging for a few hours really help?
Yes! Sometimes, all the system needs is just a hard reset. Leave it unplugged for a few hours to allow refrigerant pressure to equalize.
Preventive Maintenance Tips
To prevent future issues, here’s what I’ve started doing regularly:
- Clean coils and fans every 6 months
- Set the correct temperature: 4°C (fridge), -18°C (freezer)
- Avoid overloading: It blocks air circulation
- Check and clean door seals: Poor seals cause temperature loss
When Should You Call a Professional?
Signs that the problem is beyond DIY repair
If you notice:
- No compressor activity despite power
- Error codes on display
- Persistent frost buildup
- Burning smells or electrical buzzing
…it’s time to call for help.

Visit the Beko UK Support page or call their customer service at 0333 207 9710. They offer registered repair services and spare parts.
Have these ready:
- Model number (inside the fridge door)
- Purchase date (if available)
- Description of the issue
- Any troubleshooting steps you’ve already tried
Quick Reference Table: Problems & Fixes
Problem |
Possible Cause |
Recommended Fix |
Fridge not cooling, freezer okay |
Blocked vent / damper |
Clear blockage, reset fridge |
Both fridge & freezer not cooling |
Power issue / compressor fault |
Check fuse, test compressor |
Fridge light on, not cold |
Thermostat / control board |
Adjust thermostat, reset unit |
Loud clicking sound |
Compressor relay / overload |
Replace relay, contact technician |
Ice buildup in freezer |
Defrost timer / sensor issue |
Defrost manually, inspect defrost parts |
Conclusion: What Worked Best for Me
Troubleshooting my Beko fridge freezer not working wasn’t easy, but it taught me a lot about how these appliances work. Simple things like checking the fuse, cleaning the condenser coils, or resetting the thermostat made a huge difference. But I also learned when to stop and call a pro—especially when it came to compressor or control board failures.
If your fridge has gone silent or is just not cooling as it should, I hope this guide helps you figure things out without the stress. Start simple, stay safe, and don’t be afraid to get expert help when needed.
FAQ on Beko Fridge Freezer Not Working
1. Why is my Beko fridge not getting cold but the freezer is?
This usually indicates a problem with the airflow between the freezer and fridge compartments, such as ice blockage, a faulty fan, or a broken damper. It could also be due to a sensor or thermostat issue preventing the fridge from receiving cold air.
2. Why is my Beko fridge freezer not working after a power cut?
A power cut can trigger safety lockouts in the appliance or reset the control board. Unplugging the fridge for 10 minutes and plugging it back in usually resolves the issue. If not, a power surge may have damaged internal components.
3. Is there a fuse in a Beko fridge freezer?
Yes, Beko appliances in the UK typically use a 13A fuse in the plug. If the fridge stops working entirely (no lights or sound), it’s worth checking and replacing the fuse as the first troubleshooting step.
4. What is the lifespan of a Beko fridge freezer?
On average, a Beko fridge freezer lasts between 10 to 15 years with proper care and maintenance. Regular cleaning, correct temperature settings, and timely servicing can extend its lifespan.
by Kanimozhi BV | Jun 25, 2025 | Washing Machine, Appliances
I recently noticed something odd after doing a load of laundry: the fabric softener compartment was full of water. At first, I thought it might be a one-off issue, but after several washes, the problem persisted.
If you’re experiencing the same, then don’t worry, we are here to solve. This issue is quite common, and in most cases, it’s completely fixable without calling an engineer.
Why is the fabric softener compartment full of water?
The design of most UK washing machines includes a siphon mechanism in the detergent drawer. The siphon is the one that pulls the liquid fabric softener into the drum during the rinse cycle.
When this mechanism gets blocked or fails to operate properly, water starts pooling in the compartment instead of draining away.
How does the siphon mechanism work in the softener drawer?
The fabric softener area contains a siphon tube and a small cap or insert. During the rinse cycle, water flows through dedicated jets that flush the fabric softener from the compartment into the drum.
As the water rises in the compartment, it reaches the siphon point, starting the siphon action that quickly drains the liquid. If the siphon is clogged or the cap is misaligned, this process breaks down.

Why does water stay in fabric softener compartment after the cycle?
Several factors can cause this:
- Blocked siphon tube: Softener residue, mould, or limescale can obstruct the siphon.
- Misaligned siphon cap: A displaced or loose siphon cap can prevent proper draining.
- Clogged inlet jets: These jets may get blocked by detergent build-up.
- Water pressure issues: Weak water flow can disrupt the siphon mechanism.
- Machine tilting forward: A mislevelled machine can affect drainage.
How often should I clean the softener drawer?
Honestly, I used to ignore my detergent drawer entirely. But after seeing the build-up inside, I now clean it every couple of months.
Residue from concentrated softeners can be sticky and lead to blockages. Cleaning helps prevent issues with both drainage and odours.

Where is the siphon tube and how do I clean it?
To find and clean the siphon:
- Remove the detergent drawer completely by pressing the release tab.
- Locate the siphon insert in the fabric softener compartment (usually a plastic cap or cover).
- Remove the siphon insert and soak it in warm, soapy water.
- Use a soft brush or old toothbrush to scrub away softener buildup.
- Clean the compartment and rinse everything thoroughly before reassembling.
A quick test: after reassembling the drawer, pour some water into the softener compartment. If it drains immediately, you’ve fixed it.
Can machine alignment affect softener drainage?
Yes—and this surprised me. I found that if the washing machine leans too far forward, it can affect the siphoning action.
Make sure your machine is level both front-to-back and side-to-side. Use a spirit level on the top surface and adjust the feet if needed.
What routine steps should I follow to fix it?
Here’s my simple checklist:
- Remove the detergent drawer
- Take out and clean the siphon insert
- Scrub jets and compartment with warm water and an old toothbrush
- Soak parts in vinegar if there’s limescale
- Reassemble and test drainage with water
- Level the machine if necessary
When should I consider replacing parts or calling an engineer?
If cleaning doesn’t solve the issue, consider these possibilities:
Problem |
Possible Fix |
Broken siphon insert |
Replace the insert |
Malfunctioning inlet valve/solenoid |
Call a technician |
Internal blockage in dispenser tube |
Professional service may be needed |
Only after these checks would I recommend calling in a repair expert. Most times, a deep clean does the trick.

How can I prevent water from pooling in the future?
To keep your machine running smoothly:
- Clean the drawer every 6–12 weeks
- Use diluted softener instead of pouring it in thick
- Leave the drawer open slightly after washes to let it air dry
- Avoid overfilling the softener compartment
- Check and clean inlet jets during each clean
These small habits can make a huge difference in avoiding future drainage issues.
Conclusion – How I fixed and avoided “fabric softener compartment full of water”?
Fixing the issue of a fabric softener compartment full of water turned out to be easier than I expected. Once I understood how the siphon system worked and gave the drawer a thorough clean, the problem vanished.
Regular cleaning and machine checks have now become a part of my laundry routine. If you’re dealing with this, take 20 minutes and follow these steps—you’ll likely solve it yourself without needing a repair call.
Related Article: What Are the 3 Compartments in a Washing Machine Drawer Bosch?
FAQ on Fabric Softener Compartment Full of Water
1. Can using too much fabric softener cause water to remain in the compartment?
Yes. Overfilling the fabric softener compartment can overwhelm the siphon mechanism, preventing it from draining properly. Always follow the fill line marked in the drawer.
2. Is it safe to use the washing machine if the fabric softener compartment stays full of water?
It’s generally safe for one or two cycles, but prolonged use without addressing the issue may lead to mould, odours, and inefficiency. It’s best to fix the problem promptly.
3. Do all washing machines have the same softener compartment design?
No. While most UK machines use a similar siphon-based system, designs can vary by brand. Some newer models have removable trays or self-cleaning mechanisms that help reduce buildup.
by Kanimozhi BV | Jun 25, 2025 | Washing Machine, Appliances
Using soda crystals in your laundry routine can raise a valid concern: can soda crystals damage washing machine components? No, soda crystals do not damage your washing machine when used correctly.
They are a traditional, safe, and effective cleaning agent—especially for tackling limescale, soap scum, and odours.
However, improper use or excessive quantities may lead to build-up or residue in the system, especially in colder wash cycles or if not fully dissolved.
What are soda crystals in washing machine?
Soda crystals, also known as washing soda, are alkaline compounds (sodium carbonate) commonly used to soften water, dissolve grease, and deep clean appliances.
In the UK, they’re a staple in traditional cleaning routines and widely used as part of washing machine maintenance with soda crystals.
These crystals are an effective natural washing machine cleaner, helping homeowners avoid harsh chemical alternatives.
They’re not only budget-friendly but also eco-conscious, making them ideal for those wanting to maintain their appliances while reducing their environmental footprint.
How do soda crystals work inside your washing machine?
When dissolved in water, soda crystals react with minerals to soften hard water, which enhances detergent efficiency.
They also break down fatty residues and eliminate odours caused by soap scum and bacteria.
This action descales the washing machine, flushes out detergent build-up, and clears any blockages in the system.
Difference from baking soda:
- Soda crystals (washing soda): High pH (~11), powerful degreaser
- Baking soda: Mild pH (~8.5), deodorizer with gentle cleaning ability
Because of their potency, soda crystals should be used in moderation and with hot water to ensure full dissolution.

Can soda crystals damage washing machine components?
Generally, no. Soda crystals are safe for your machine’s drum, pipes, and seals. They’re non-corrosive and don’t erode materials when used properly.
But using too much too often or not running a hot enough cycle can leave undissolved particles, which may clog the system or affect efficiency.
Modern high-efficiency (HE) machines in the UK often have specific guidelines.
It’s best to consult your user manual or manufacturer’s recommendations before adding anything beyond detergent.
Where to put soda crystals in washing machine?
There are two main spots:
- Drum: Best for deep cleaning—add directly into an empty drum.
- Detergent drawer: Ideal for regular laundry—add a small scoop to boost detergent action and soften water.
For those dealing with a particularly bad build-up or odour, start with a full 500g in the drum followed by a hot wash.
This removes internal residue efficiently and refreshes your machine.

How much soda crystals should you use?
Purpose |
Amount |
Placement |
Monthly deep clean |
500g |
Directly in drum |
Softening laundry |
25g per load |
Detergent drawer |
Odour removal |
200g |
Drum + hot cycle |
These are approximate values. Always adjust based on your water hardness and washing machine capacity.
When and how often should you use soda crystals?
Depending on your needs, use soda crystals as follows:
- Once a month: Run an empty hot wash (60–90°C) with 500g soda crystals to maintain cleanliness
- Weekly (optional): Add 25g to detergent drawer to soften water and enhance detergent
- Occasionally: Use 200g in the drum when tackling strong odours or noticeable residue
Using soda crystals routinely can prevent build-up and reduce the need for professional cleaning or repairs.
What steps should I follow to clean my washing machine with soda crystals?
Here’s a quick step-by-step guide:
- Add ½ kilograms of soda crystals to the empty drum
- Make sure the machine is set to the hottest cycle (preferably 90°C)
- Run the wash without any laundry
- After the cycle, wipe the rubber door seal and inside the door
- Remain the door open to let it air dry & prevent mould
This process helps remove odours like rotten egg from the washing machine, eliminates grime, and keeps your appliance fresh.
Can using soda crystals improve laundry results and save money?
Yes! Here’s how:
- Softened water: Less detergent needed for effective cleaning
- Odour control: Keeps machine fresh, improving smell of laundry
- Improved efficiency: Takes of soap scum & limescale, enhancing spin performance
In the long term, you’ll use less detergent and experience fewer machine issues—translating to lower maintenance costs and better laundry outcomes.

What if it still smells or shows gunk after using soda crystals?
If odours or residues persist:
- Repeat the cleaning process
- Add 1 cup of white vinegar or citric acid during a second hot wash
- Clean the filter and door seals manually
- Check for hidden buildup behind the detergent drawer
These extra steps can resolve lingering issues, particularly in older machines or those that have never been deep-cleaned.
Are there risks of residue or rough clothes?
Yes, but only with incorrect use. Common mistakes include:
- Overusing soda crystals without sufficient water
- Running cold washes, which may not dissolve crystals fully
- Using in every wash, which can stiffen towels or leave residue on dark clothing
To avoid these problems, always follow dosage guidelines and dissolve crystals properly by running hot cycles.
In cases of extremely hard water, consider pairing soda crystals with a limescale remover or switching to STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) occasionally.
Conclusion – Should I keep using soda crystals?
Yes—soda crystals are a safe, economical, and eco-friendly way to clean and maintain your washing machine, as long as they’re used properly.
With the right amount and frequency, they can prolong your machine’s life, reduce detergent usage, and improve your laundry results.
Just remember:
- Use hot water for deep cleans
- Follow the dosage for each use
- Clean seals and drawers occasionally by hand
By doing so, you’ll keep your machine in great condition and avoid the worry of whether can soda crystals damage washing machine parts.